Historically makeup was made from plant and animal fats. In the 1950s, silicones revolutionized the beauty industry, bringing new sensory textures to cosmetic products including face and lip makeup. Silicones offered a soft touch and cushiony slip that wasn’t possible before their introduction into the beauty industry.
Have you ever applied a foundation or moisturizer and been impressed by the satisfying sensation as it glides onto your skin? Or the texture of a gloss that makes your lips feel plump and voluminous? The substance that makes lipstick glide smooth and creams spread with ease - is silicone.
Other benefits to silicone from a formulation standpoint is the fact that it doesn't oxidize. In other words, it has an infinite shelf life. Compared to natural plant butters and waxes which break down over time, products that contain mostly silicones have a shelf life of many years.
However, as the industry has taken a hard turn toward more environmentally favourable ingredients, the demand to improve the chemistry of silicones has increased. Silicones are like rubber or plastic; they are not biodegradable, but bio-accumulative - taking a very long time to decompose. It has recently been discovered that these “forever chemicals” called PFAS (polyfluorinated substances) accumulate in our bodies. In cosmetics, PUFAS are often found in the silicones or silicone-treated pigments of long-wearing, water-proof products.
At Pure Anada, we have never formulated our products with silicone of any kind. Our natural ingredient philosophy is to use raw materials from the earth. Silicones are chemically synthetic and offer no benefit to the health of our skin.
We were willing to accept the “disadvantages” of formulating without silicone in exchange for the nourishing benefits of using plant oils, butters and waxes. Read why we say "no" to silicone HERE.
LIPSTICK - We were willing to accept that our lipstick didn’t instantly deposit colour without warming it on your lips for a few seconds first. Silicone has a reputation of drying skin which is why conventional lipsticks often leave lips parched over time. Pure Anada lipsticks are loaded with moisture from shea butter, rosehip oil, cherry kernel oil and other incredible raw materials loaded with fatty acids.
LIP GLOSS - We were willing to accept that our lip gloss wasn’t as thick and sticky as traditional gloss. In fact, this “disadvantage” is usually a sensory benefit for most people who don’t appreciate the typical stickiness of a traditional gloss. Pure Anada gloss is nourishing and lightweight.
PIGMENT - We accept the fact that the pigments we use in our face makeup products are uncoated with silicone. Raw mineral pigments can shift to appear lighter or darker in different conditions. This poses a challenge when grinding our pigment blends in the manufacturing process. However, the alternative of using minerals encapsulated in silicone is not one we are willing to accept.
STICK CONCEALER - We are fine with educating our customers to gently warm their stick concealer on the back of their hand before applying it for the first time. This activates the natural waxes - making it easier to apply.
LIQUID FOUNDATION - We were willing to accept the fact that our liquid foundation didn’t glide like conventional cover-up. Instead, we instructed our customers to apply it with a brush to diffuse it across their skin evenly.
A few years ago we were introduced to sustainable silicone alternatives by one of our suppliers. These ingredients are the result of the push toward “green chemistry” in the beauty industry. Brands are increasingly choosing alternatives with better environmental profiles.
We determined that we would take the opportunity to elevate our liquid foundation product, which was where we noticed the most need for improvement upon our very natural formula. Previously, we used castor oil as our replacement for silicone. Its thick viscosity makes it nature’s most comparable alternative to synthetic silicone. It has many nourishing benefits, but does cause the finished product to “drag” over the skin which doesn’t make for the most pleasant application. Applying with a brush was helpful.
In February, 2023 we re-launched our liquid foundation to include these silicone alternatives that have been developed by the principles of “green chemistry”. Only a small percentage of our oil phase was replaced, as it was all that was needed to make this sensory improvement. The formulation still includes the benefits of castor, jojoba, argan and seabuckthorn oils.
For your reference, on the label these silicone alternatives appear as the INCI:
Heptyl Undecylenate Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer.
Positive ecological highlights include:
- 100% renewable plant-based sources - derived from castor, palm and coconut
- Sustainable - the only byproduct of the manufacturing process is water
- Biodegradable - not persistent in the environment
- COSMOS approved for use in certified organic formulas.
The response to the reformulation of our liquid foundation has been overwhelmingly positive. Our clients are appreciating the new luxurious feel and ease of application. We will always choose the safest ingredients available to us, in order to continue bringing you the most effective beauty products possible.
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